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  1. #1

    Smile beaded epoxy buzzers

    Has anyone else tried using plastic beads for the thicker 'thorax' of epoxy buzzers. I've been using 2 or 3, 2mm plastic beads at the front, depending upon the hook size, the back being the normal buzzer style. It is far quicker than building up a thorax and they seem to work well, at least for the rainbows in my local lake. The images I've seen on the internet either have the whole buzzer as beads, or just one at the front.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Connecticut, USA
    Posts
    1,227

    Default Re: beaded epoxy buzzers

    yes

    Poor quality materials and tools are destined to discourage beginner tiers and cause greater expense when the time comes to replace them.

  3. #3

    Default Re: beaded epoxy buzzers

    Many thanks for the reply. These are similar to those I have found on the internet. However, the ones I've been using have had 2/3 beads by the hook eye, then the rest of the buzzer was simply made up of tying thread. See picture below. I also make them with 3 mm beads by the hook, then 2mm beads for the body.

    beaded epoxy buzzers-buzzers-001-jpg

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Not So Greater Manchester.
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    19,386

    Default Re: beaded epoxy buzzers

    Kingf000, your buzzer on the left may have difficulty in holding onto a fish. A smaller bead or tying thread instead of the last bead will leave a better gap between body and hook point. You could just omit that last bead altogether.
    I only use the one bead on my bead head buzzers but like to add a thorax behind it of peacock herl or dubbing then the epoxy body.
    It's good that you've done both thick and slim bodies. I've had days where one or the other has only worked.
    I have a wife and daughter. I'm always wrong and outnumbered. Hidden Content

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  5. #5

    Default Re: beaded epoxy buzzers

    Quote Originally Posted by wobbly face View Post
    Kingf000, your buzzer on the left may have difficulty in holding onto a fish. A smaller bead or tying thread instead of the last bead will leave a better gap between body and hook point. You could just omit that last bead altogether.
    I only use the one bead on my bead head buzzers but like to add a thorax behind it of peacock herl or dubbing then the epoxy body.
    It's good that you've done both thick and slim bodies. I've had days where one or the other has only worked.
    Many thanks for the advice. I have lost fish on that, but no more than I normally lose on any barbless hook. However, I'll give your suggestion a go and taper it down with thread.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Western Mountain Region-USA
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    407

    Default Re: beaded epoxy buzzers

    I have played around with beads quite a bit over the years. I like them and use them often. Others have shown how easy it is to fashion a generic "Buzzer". I like buzzers that imitate a chironomid pupae closely in taper. Lots of great buzzer patterns out there; and the best chironomid pupae imitations, IMO, come from the devotees in B.C.

    Anyways, here is a red buzzer crafted using 10 wraps of 8/0, a small tuft of poly, one small dark red bead, UV Cure resin and a hot pink Sharpie pen. Note: All of the pink color comes from coating the hook shank with Sharpie ink before coating in UV resin. The resin is clear, not colored. These red buzzers work well in lakes that have blood worm hatches too.. Food for thought?

    best,
    Rich

    Last edited by flymaker; 09-12-2019 at 07:10 PM.

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