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  1. #1

    Default Straggle Dabbler

    reproduced by kind permission of Dave Downie (Daver)

    Step 1: - Kamasan B175 Size, thread UTC 70 Fl.Orange

    Wind thread down to bend of the hook if you wish to put in a Fl.Butt then do so at this point I have choosen not too but there are many variations of dabblers you can tie.

    Step 2: - Select 6/7 strands of your choosen colour of cock pheasant tail center I have choosen Fl.Orange I dyed myself.

    Tie Down with three or 4 turns of thread, not too many as you do not want to bulk up here.

    Step 3: - Choose a colour of straggle, Fl.Fire Red I have choosen

    Tie in with the same again 4 turns and trim, make sure you tie it in with the straggle fibres going backwards.

    Step 4: - Take the thread back up to behind the eye, leave about 3mm of space for bringing the wing back.

    Select some bronze mallard for the lower wing and tie in with 3 turns of thread, you can move the bronze about when under the tension of one turn to spread it then lock it with another 2 turns, make sure it is going forwards and the correct length. Also make sure that the darker colours are facing upwards at this time.

    Step 5: - Select about twice as much bronze mallard for the upper wing

    Tie in with the more darker colour facing down this time and also make sure it is longer than the lower wing. Same as the lower wing move it around under the tension of one turn of thread to spread it then lock it with a further 2 turns. Improtant do not bulk up here on the thread.

    Step 6: - Trim the Bronze Mallard ends away Carefully.

    See how neat the thread is?

    Step 7: - Leave the thread about 3mm behind where the bronze mallard is finished off.

    And wind the straggle up the body in touching turns but not tightly, you will also need to constantly stroke the straggle fibres backwards as you go. Stop at the thread do not be tempted to run it right up to the bronze mallard or you will end up with a huge head on the fly.

    Step 8: - Trim off the straggle carefully as not to cut the thread.

    Now pull the Bronze Mallard backwards and tie in with a few turns of thread, the further back you go with the thread will determine at what angle the wing will sit at. Whip finish for safety as you do not want it all coming apart at this stage.

    Step 9: - Finish the fly off with red holographic one strand per side

    and whip finish, you can use gold holographic or Jungle Cock, whatever takes your fancy.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2006


    I'm looking for any successful variations of this fly that will suit wild browns.

    Thanks in advance.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Brecon, Wales
    Blog Entries


    hi gander

    one of the best variations ive used is, that exact fly with a black, claret and an olive body.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Shetland Isles


    hi gander,

    two of these patterns that i use on the lochs up here are:

    Hook: 10 - 16
    Tail: Red Hackle Fibres
    Body: Olive Straggle
    Wing: Cloaking bronze mallard

    Hook: 10 - 16
    Tail: Short sunburst marabou
    Body: Claret Straggle
    Wing Cloaking Bronze Mallard


    Andrew P
    If you fished everyday of the fishing season in Shetland, you wouldn't have to fish any loch twice Hidden Content Hidden Content

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  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Angelina Jolies G-string


    Quote Originally Posted by Gander
    I'm looking for any successful variations of this fly that will suit wild browns.

    Thanks in advance.
    Heres one i use Gander.

    Hook - B175 size 10
    Thread - Black
    Tail - Claret Pheasant Tail
    Body - Claret Straggle
    Rib - Copper wire
    Hackle - Blood red palmered through the straggle
    Underwing - Golden Pheasant rump feather (red)
    Wing - Cloaked Bronze Mallard
    Cheeks - Jungle Cock.

    The Bear
    Come when the leaves come,angle with me,Come when the bees hum,crossing the lea,Come to discover the angling delights,of the Melvin with me.
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