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Thread: Dubbin

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    London
    Posts
    6

    Default Dubbin

    Apologies if this is in the wrong place. New to Forum.
    Couple of seasons ago I made my own dubbing for my boots. It was OK, but rotted the stitching. I did this as an experiment and out of dissatisfaction with avaliable off the shelf brands.
    I wondered if anyone on the Forum can recommend a brand, or a recepie for home made that doesn't rot stitching.
    My boots take a lot of punishment.
    Thanks
    AR.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Sheffield
    Posts
    7,482

    Default Re: Dubbin

    No brand and no recipe but there was a time when we treated our motorcycle boots with neats foot oil, modern boot treatments are much better and a lot less smelly.
    I just rub boot polish well into the stitching every time I remember, the soles wear out and the eyelets give way long before the boots show signs of wear. Drying your boots is a must before treatment otherwise you trap water in the seams.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Not So Greater Manchester.
    Posts
    18,150

    Default Re: Dubbin

    Nikwax do a leather spray treatment for boots. Far better than dubbin which allows dirt and grit to stick to it, same with some oils as they don't dry.
    I went from dubbin to shoe polish.
    I have a wife and daughter. I'm always wrong and outnumbered. Hidden Content

    A Lancsy Lad. Hidden Content

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Highlands
    Posts
    5,300

    Default Re: Dubbin

    when I worked for the GPO telephones , in the 60's we had leather climbing belts and we were given a tin of "Belts Leather dressing"made by Brooks , it was made so it didn't rot the Stitching, so it had no neats foot oil , all I could make out was Beeswax and possibly Paraffin wax, or BW and Turpentine ( not The Subs)there are various recipes, have a visit to a saddler,but a good quality Boot polish is as good, easker1

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Central Scotland
    Posts
    3,353

    Default Re: Dubbin

    I've been using Snoseal for perhaps twenty+ years now. Once a year is usually enough, although I do use Yeti Gaiters on top

    Atsko Unisex's SNO For leather OT Seal Wax, Multicoloured, 200 ml: Amazon.co.uk: Amazon.co.uk:
    Don't worry, be happy.
    Sandy
    Carried it in full, then carry it out empty.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Dubbin

    I use Renapur, brilliant product as it waterproofs and makes leather more supple. It's made from beeswax and other ingredients.I wouldn't use anything else, used on walking boots, motorcycling boots and leather m/cycle gloves.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Well within my comfort zone
    Posts
    8,588

    Default Re: Dubbin

    Wasn't Vaseline Petroleum Jelly very similar?
    2019 & it will be time for a change.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Moray, Scotland
    Posts
    1,059

    Default Re: Dubbin

    This stuff is really good.
    Used on my motorcycle gear and leather boots for many years.
    Amazon.co.uk: kocholine

    As mentioned up thread though, it will leave the surface "tacky" and dust, grit, sand etc. will stick to it unless it is buffed up really well.
    Guaranteed not to rot stitching though.
    Only when the last tree has been cut down, the last fish caught and the last river poisoned, will we realise, we cannot eat money.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Wiltshire
    Posts
    7,225

    Default Re: Dubbin

    On the boots I wear for picking up on driven game shoots I just use the proprietary Nikwax products and have no complaints. My boots get very hard use indeed - 55 days last season through woods, brambles, growing crops, maize cover crops etc.

    All I do at the end of each day is to scrub off any mud with a brush, apply the cleaning agent while the boot is still damp, rub it in well, wipe off any excess then follow up with the waterproofing agent. The boots are then left to dry in a warm place overnight and are ready to go next morning. I expect them to last me until I give up working in the shooting field.

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