Nothing wrong with the shape of the tippet wing Kev and it looks set perfectly to me and flat together as it should be. Still very impressive at this early stage and it's easy for me to say but you forget just how difficult it is to tie these flies as the years go by.I wasn't happy with the shape of the tippet wing.... I found one tippet that had a lovely shape, but I looked through 4 GP heads and couldn't find a match......
I'm sure you'll find that one out some day Kev but yeagh toppings can be a real pain sometimes but the more GP heads you have to choose from the more options you'll have. I must have bought over 30 GP heads since I started on Classics you can never have enough.My biggest problem was the crest, I lost count of the attempts it took to get it to lay anywhere near sensible. How on earth you can 6 on top of each other is beyond me Mark!!!
As DBS says, "squeeze the sten with a pliers so its flat" , but the stem/rachis actually needs a slight kink in it, if you have a decent thumbnail, it still needs a degree of practice & a few failures along the way. My nails are very soft & you only have to look at them & to break, which is annoying to say the least. Flat nosed pliers, maybe alright, however I'll be replacing my cheaper version of this style with these shortly. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PARALLEL-ACTION-ROUND-FLAT-NOSE-NYLON-JAW-PLIERS-JEWELRY-CRAFTS-WITH-EXTRA-JAW/261882402466
Yep, been doing that John, it can still be a bu88er thoughAs DBS says, "squeeze the sten with a pliers so its flat" , but the stem/rachis actually needs a slight kink in it, if you have a decent thumbnail, it still needs a degree of practice & a few failures along the way. My nails are very soft & you only have to look at them & to break, which is annoying to say the least. Flat nosed pliers, maybe alright, however I'll be replacing my cheaper version of this style with these shortly. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PARALLEL-ACTION-ROUND-FLAT-NOSE-NYLON-JAW-PLIERS-JEWELRY-CRAFTS-WITH-EXTRA-JAW/261882402466
Yes that is quite true doobrysnatcher and Dave Carne one of the top classic fly tiers in the world uses that mirror technique quite a lot by taking crests from very near the top of the head which are good for flies size 4/0 and less as they decrease in size as they go up. Usually they have just the right curve and if you nick along the topside of the stem with your thumb or finger nail you can put some nice cascade into the fibres. If you over do it you can reverse it by nicking along the underside of the stem which will reverse it again so you can keep trying until you achieve the effect you're after.. Saying that you don't want to pick a topping with to much curve as it'll look to severe but as you mention one that matches the bend of the hook as close as possible. They need to be tied in on the creamy white base part of the stem as this is flatter so you want to use as much if not all of the whole crest. Rather than strip a few of the lower fibres off I cut them as close to the stem as I can which helps stabilise it when tied in. I also put a nick in the stem just after the tie in point which gives me a bit of leeway and I can increase the tail height after it's tied in if needed. Usually a lot of the smaller crests are twisted and sometimes if you're lucky you can get a head with a lot of straight ones on it. The ones that are only slightly twisted can be straightened with a bit of stem manipulation with finger and thumb nail.im not a salmon fly tyer, but i read somewhere , a tail crest should reflect the bend of the hook similar to a heart shape ,or a mirror image of the hook bend , if you know what i mean , and to get the desired effect ,you need to select then strip the unwanted fibres from the stalk ,size it up and squeeze the sten with a pliers so its flat , to make it easier to tie in ,its the same technique for roofing or veiling a fly ,that way it tends not to flare out,
this hopefully will help you ,
on that i think your fly is a beuty