Battery advice

noeyedeer

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Hi
Looking for help on living with a leisure battery!

Just acquired a Mink Coater 30Lb/ft (nearly new, eBay) and bought a new leisure battery 110Ah

Same as this (but bought locally):PLATINUM LEISURE MOTORHOME SEALED BATTERY 110A LB6110L* | eBay UK

Questions are:
- What is the best charger to go for that will charge and maintain the battery.
- Do you leave it on the charger/conditioner all the time?
- Do you recommend any kind of meter to test for level remaining during use or just wait till the boat stops :eek:
(This question having christened my new toys this weekend in horrendous wind and observing a fellow forumite with a 55Lb/ft MK on a 85Ah going backwards not forwards due to wind..and it was only mid- morning)

Sorry for the newb questions :eek:
 

seddo

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Stakeford. North East
Hi there, on recommendations from this forum I bought a

CTEC MULTI XS3600 charger and they are mint.

You can leave this charger on for months without any problems

At The Ultimate Finish TEL 0845 838 1200 you can buy one with free delivery for £54.95 saving £3 or you can shop around for a better price.

Hope you have some luck

Regards

seddo
 

noeyedeer

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Cheers for the info Seddo.

I'd seen that one but was concerned it was only rated to 75Ah for the charging function (up to 125Ah for maintenance mode I think).

My battery is new so shouldn't need a heavy charging cycle at the mo but later on I wondered if this unit was man enough to bring a well drained battery of 110Ah up to full again.:confused:

What size is your battery you use this with?

All a new experience for me.....
 

seddo

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A 110ah mate, I have had my battery on charge from last october until this april and everything went great on my first fishing trip this season

seddo
 

noeyedeer

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That's re-assuring!
Further googling reveals there's a new CTEK 4003 out now that won product of the year 2010 and I can find it for just a tenner more than the cheapest xs3600. It's an 8 stage conditioner and adds better sulphation/recovery modes etc. May be tempted to lash out rather than go the lidl/aldi route if nothing comes up in next few days.

So far happy I got the 30lb MK motor if only by chance at the price I wanted to pay. Coupled with the 110Ah I reckon it will get through less battery in a day even if it takes a little longer to get to the next drift. Used one on esthwaite last month and that convinced me despite many on here saying go 50Lb+
 

seddo

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Its definately worth buying the best you can afford, I reckon the latest charger must be a cracker if its better than the 3600 model.
Go for it mate, you won't regret it.

seddo
 

The Famous Grouse

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To answer your question about a battery gauge, I don't think you need one.

A 110 Ahr battery provides for a lot of fishing. I've certainly never run out a full battery in one day of fishing with a 42 Minn Kota bow mount motor, even fishing 10 hours or more.

I can fish for two days if necessary with my 42 MK without recharging, but I have a petrol outboard for getting me to and from the fishing. It's always better to recharge between sessions, I'm just laying this out to say that I don't think you're at much danger of running the battery dry during the course of a normal day.

You just have to be a little sensitive to the motor and how it's performing. The battery won't just up and die suddenly on you. It's just a gradual decline in power. If you're a little bit sensitive to how the motor feels, you'll notice when it starts to decline a little. Time to head for home.

As you have already identified, the main enemy of the electric outboard is wind. You have to keep in mind, that as a petrol outboard HP equivilent, your 30 pound thrust outboard is very rougly like a 1-1.5 HP petrol outboard as far as equivlent power. So thinking about it that way, you'll see that if you put 2 anglers and gear in the boat + the weight of the boat itself + the wind resistance of the freeboard of the boat. . . Basically, you're wringing it for all it's worth in a heavy wind.

BTW, the electric should NEVER be your only method of propulsion. Always bring oars and always have an anchor, or have a petrol outboard as a backup to the electric. The quiet power of an electric is appealing for fishing, but don't kid yourself. When conditions get bad, you don't want to be relying only on a little electric to get you home.

Grouse
 

noeyedeer

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Thanks Grouse, that's sound advice and much appreciated. :thumbs

Current plan is to use the electric mainly to reduce rowing effort where motors aren't provided and petrol not allowed. Guess if I progress to larger waters then the usage you outlined above with a petrol option sounds like the best way to go. (example in Stan Headly's article in T&S this month with a pic on Ullswater with both types of engine on the boat).

Dave
 

noeyedeer

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An update on this 110 Ah leisure battery:
After using it on and off for full days on the water, no more than a dozen times, I’d left it on trickle charge in between trips.

Then I decided to steal the charger to use on the car and thought, as the leisure battery had been left fully charged I’d be ok:

Mistake

After not being on charge for at least 12 months it now won’t take charge, the charger attempts but finishes each time in error mode

A technical colleague reckons that sediment settles between the plates causing them to short?

If anyone has tips to revive such a condition I’m all ears !
 

Cap'n Fishy

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An update on this 110 Ah leisure battery:
After using it on and off for full days on the water, no more than a dozen times, I’d left it on trickle charge in between trips.

Then I decided to steal the charger to use on the car and thought, as the leisure battery had been left fully charged I’d be ok:

Mistake

After not being on charge for at least 12 months it now won’t take charge, the charger attempts but finishes each time in error mode

A technical colleague reckons that sediment settles between the plates causing them to short?

If anyone has tips to revive such a condition I’m all ears !

Sounds like you need to try (at least) a 'de-sulphating' cycle. My CTEK charger has a 'recondition cycle' mode on it, which it recommends running once a year to keep the battery in good condition.

Try looking up on YouTube. Here is one I found...


Col
 

Cap'n Fishy

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Interesting thing on leisure batteries. In the past, they were all just the one option. Now Halfords are offering 3 types of deep-cycle leisure batteries.



The one I bought in 2018 matches the 'Class C' physically, and in spec in terms of AH, price, etc. The implication is that all the leisure batteries we have been using to run Minn Kotas and other leccy motors are not intended for that purpose, but only for running lights, etc when not connected to a charger. I was asking the guy in Halfords when I saw the new 3-type line-up. When I told him I was using a 'Class C' connected to a thing that was pulling loads of amps and was using it without a charger on and off for up to 12 hours, he was amazed! o_O

The Class C is rated for 80 cycles, meaning that if you run a Minn Kota off it for a day and then recharge it, you will be doing well to get 80 days' use from it before it starts to go belly-up on you. It seems we should be using the Class A type, which sounds like it is more like a Li-ion in terms of how much you can discharge it without damaging it. You get less AH than with a Class C of the same weight, and you pay more per AH than for a Class C, but it is rated for 400 cycles, rather than 80.

Col
 
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noeyedeer

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Sounds like you need to try (at least) a 'de-sulphating' cycle. My CTEK charger has a 'recondition cycle' mode on it, which it recommends running once a year to keep the battery in good condition.

Try looking up on YouTube. Here is one I found...


Col

Cheers Col
I’ve had a go at the suggestions but still end up with a fail mode on the CTEK.
Tried desulphation, Recond, charging with a standard (non intelligent) charger etc....

Looks like it’s a goner- shame after only light use but maybe lesson learned about
not keeping it on the trickle charger.

Also, without a meter I can’t tell how much charge it’s actually holding, may be able to do a better test once the workshop at the office is back open again.

Not got any boat trips currently planned so have a bit of time to sort things out.
 

3lbgrayling

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Most lead acid batteries will be goosed after 3 years.But they are a lot better than they used to be.My van battery was still ok after 7 years.but that was driving basically every day. Li-Ion seems to be the way to go,but still very expensive.I normally get 2-3 years/seasons out of my 110 ah Lesure battery

Jim
 

Cap'n Fishy

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Most lead acid batteries will be goosed after 3 years.But they are a lot better than they used to be.My van battery was still ok after 7 years.but that was driving basically every day. Li-Ion seems to be the way to go,but still very expensive.I normally get 2-3 years/seasons out of my 110 ah Lesure battery

Jim

I found the make has a lot to do with it. I was buying cheap 110 AH/115 AH batteries, from brands such as "UK Giant" and "Platinum" and getting barely 2 seasons out of them. Then I switched to Halfords (I think Bosch are the same ones), and suddenly I was getting 5 or even 6 seasons out of them! I also use the smaller 70 AH ones, for an 'electric ghillie' when using both petrol and leccy together, and even the Halfords ones barely make it through 3 years, I think because they are the type C and are only rated for 80 cycles - particularly if you drain them hard - which you are warned not to do!

My mate has an old Halfords 115 AH, that is now approaching 10 years of age, and is still going strong, thanks to very limited usage. I borrow it off him to give me a 3rd battery when going up to Loch Hope, and it still gets us through a day if we don't tan it. In return, I put it through a 'recondition' cycle on my CTEK charger, while I have it.

You can tell the difference between a cheap one and a Halfords. Just pick them up. A cheap one will weigh about half of a Halfords. My mate's 10 year old one is even heavier than a modern Halfords - it weighs a ton!

Col
 

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