Cane rod reconditioning

badcaster

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Murph, please let me know if you'd prefer me to start another thread as I don't want to hijack your thread but it is the same topic so it probably makes sense to keep it as one? I'll upload some of my picks now and if you prefer I'll delete later and restart.
 

badcaster

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So here we go with my 2nd hand bamboo rod. 5 pieces, a spinning section and 3 fly sections plus butt section.
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As I said the reel seat, handle, ferrules and guides all need doing. So I've got a job on.
Ive started the strip down and had a few issues as I'll show
 

badcaster

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Should say I've done lots of guide replacement in the past but never gone beyond that so there is a lot to learn. My workshop is small and I don't have a lathe so I'm faced with some challenges.
Here's a few images post strip down. I started by mating the sections on a sheet of backing paper so I can refer to that as it goes forward.
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Whole strip down took about an hour and a half. The ferrules were troublesome at first and I've snapped a small bamboo piece in the process so I'll have to rerun a round to receive the male ferrule. Hmmm.
I've stripped one line of varnish using a blunt scraper - the edge of a cheap steel rule - and the bamboo looks beautiful underneath so I'm really quite excited at the prospect.
I've got a reel seat and handle en route from China (happy that it's as safe as any post landing at the moment) - the costs are mounting up into what could be an aunt sally if I mess it up at any stage.
The handle poses its own challenges as can be seen from the pics!!
 

badcaster

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So the handle.. I was not expecting a wooden core to be present at all. That gives a couple of challenges, the new cork handle is 10 mm bore and the wood core is 18mm dia. The handle itself was reversible for fly / spin - this was a combination rod. I didn't click what the hole in the butt section was for, but it's a female ferrule. The butt section male/female ferrules are nailed in place which has created a crack in the wood. I really don't want to remove this wood core as it adds 10" of so onto the rod length - and I really don't want to shorten the rod any more than I already have with ferrule work.
I'm hoping to cut the top 1.5" (apologies for mixing decimal/imperial) from the half wells cork and use that to cover the ferrule at the top of the wood. The rest of the cork bore will then be opened up to about 15mm and I'll turn down the wood core to match. The new reel seat is also 15mm bore. Interesting point was that the original reel seat was simply screwed onto the wood core using its own internal thread, as can be seen from one of the pics.
For the ferrules, I need to rerun one on a tip section. It's 5mm male ferrule and I'm thinking of mounting in a horizontal drill mount, and using a file to get the round done. So I've lost 1" as the ferrule snapped off, and I'll lose another 1/2" or so to get it gripped in the chuck. The other ferrules are fine by the look of it. The first cast or fish however may well prove to be the true test of that theory!:oops:
 

splinters

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When you go to glue new ferrules on it can change the section lengths if they don't match the old ones. Make sure to measure before you glue up. If there is a discrepancy the rule is to make the mid section the same as the tip minus half the bedding depth of the female ferrule. the bottom section is adjusted according to it's length when fitted to the handle. That will give you three sections which match in length. If your new ferrules are the same as the old ones disregard all of the above.

Edit: Just saw that you have already had problems with shortening. Disregard my waffling unless you need the sections to match in which case you would match the other sections to the shortest one.

Simon.
 

badcaster

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Thanks Simon, appreciate the info and as you say I'm already snookered on that one - snapped ferrule and they are different to the original ones, so it will be a bit of a hodge podge of a job, but interesting challenges along the way.
 

murph

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Thank you for joining in in the topic badcaster. Believe it or not your rod is the exact same as mine.

I've ran into a small issue today. And that is that of a broken tip section. What did I learn? Don't leave rod tips on the dining table with a 2 year old daughter around. Thankfully I have another tip but it's not the same as the original. However I have gave it a try, and the action of the rod is still as it was.

IMG-20200405-WA0006.jpeg

I also have the same issue with regards to the handle. I will attempt to add some picture and a explanation of my attempt to solve the confusion.

In a past life I was a keen golfer and have a number of old clubs lying around. My idea is to use a steel golf shaft, bond it to the reel seat, then cut the shaft down and then bond that to the base of the 1st section of the rod. Obviously before it's all bonded I will also add a Cork handle. If it will work is yet to be seen that's tomorrows job. IMG_20200406_221334.jpg
Hopefully a picture can paint a thousand words.

On another note, I am very happy with the use of gorilla Glue finish. My other issue now is with the whippings. How is it best to finish? Wood PVA glue, epoxy or varnish?

Regards John
 

murph

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I did think pva wouldn't be the best finish but read an article that it can be good. What would you suggest? It's just hard to get hold of some of the stuff at the moment.

Just began the whipping, I've decided to go for a red thread as it is a little more traditional I feel.
 

badcaster

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Murph, thanks for that and wow what a coincidence!

Love the reel seat, and a nice idea with the club too - hang on, I could do that! Real blow about the tip section, you must have been gutted but lucky the spare is there. I've noticed with mine that I could do with a storage solution while its knocking round loose, I'll be sorted later with a nice wooden tube, just could do with a cardboard tube for now I think for general protection.

In addition after trying a lot of other mainly dark colors I have I've also opted for red, not ordered it yet and thinking of a metallic gold edge as well. The dark colors just didn't do it for me, I'll post a pic tomorrow showing the various colors - my rod won't be anything like a classic at all it's just a nice project really.

I've never seen the gorilla glue finish before it looks nice but I'll be trying Danish oil probably as I've plenty of it knocking round, and the araldite for the ferrules landed yesterday. Turning the two blanks to receive them will be interesting.

Question, is A or C grade thread recommended and why? I thought A grade for the gold edging to give more turns for security, though may try the superglue method for that as well?
 

murph

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I've found a shop that sells Ronseal Yacht varnish. Has anyone has any experience with this? As I say, it's only for the whipping. I guess if it keeps OK, the I could use it for future rod finishes to try.
Regards John
 

murph

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Murph, thanks for that and wow what a coincidence!

Love the reel seat, and a nice idea with the club too - hang on, I could do that! Real blow about the tip section, you must have been gutted but lucky the spare is there. I've noticed with mine that I could do with a storage solution while its knocking round loose, I'll be sorted later with a nice wooden tube, just could do with a cardboard tube for now I think for general protection.

In addition after trying a lot of other mainly dark colors I have I've also opted for red, not ordered it yet and thinking of a metallic gold edge as well. The dark colors just didn't do it for me, I'll post a pic tomorrow showing the various colors - my rod won't be anything like a classic at all it's just a nice project really.

I've never seen the gorilla glue finish before it looks nice but I'll be trying Danish oil probably as I've plenty of it knocking round, and the araldite for the ferrules landed yesterday. Turning the two blanks to receive them will be interesting.

Question, is A or C grade thread recommended and why? I thought A grade for the gold edging to give more turns for security, though may try the superglue method for that as well?
I was lucky that mine actually came with a storage box, not the best and when the rods finished I will be strengthening the box a little more and adding a few coats of varnish.

It wasn't the best, I just heard a snaping sound! Closely followed by "Ewww... Dada" I knew instantly what had happened.

I also liked the idea of the Danish oil finish so look forward to the final product. With regards to the thread wrap, I raided my late Grandmothers sewing supplies and found some thread in there. Again, if I was to do this again in the future I'd use "proper" thread. I suppose my restoration is more of a cheap and cheerful option.

Regards John
 

easker1

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That rod is one of the Rods we used to get in Aden , I have a lot of spare bits , the rods were multi use you could change the handle round and make a spinning rod and a float rod, it came in a wooden box with a centre pin reel some weird lures and some sort of line, the ferrules being hard drawn brass invariably split during use, I can't remember the price but it wasn't very much in the 50's, the Bum boats used to come out and sell you a variety of gear , china tea sets I bought a first flex camera, Kimonos, and the rods, I was in the MN and we always bunkered at Aden, easker1
 

murph

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That rod is one of the Rods we used to get in Aden , I have a lot of spare bits , the rods were multi use you could change the handle round and make a spinning rod and a float rod, it came in a wooden box with a centre pin reel some weird lures and some sort of line, the ferrules being hard drawn brass invariably split during use, I can't remember the price but it wasn't very much in the 50's, the Bum boats used to come out and sell you a variety of gear , china tea sets I bought a first flex camera, Kimonos, and the rods, I was in the MN and we always bunkered at Aden, easker1
They aren't the best quality rods. And no doubt after a short while of fishing something will go wrong as they really aren't built the best. But it's something to do at the moment. And also get to grips with the process of restoring a cane rod.

I don't suppose you have any tips for the rod do you?

Regards John
 

murph

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So here is the thinking behind my handle and reel seat issues badcaster.
Obviously I need to get it down more accurately, but I will do that when I order and get my cork handle. However I have been looking at leather wrapped handles. Similar to that of a tennis racket.

Regards John
 

easker1

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I probably have tips I haven't had a look for a while, the problem I found was the cane had been shaved to accept the ferrules instead of being built up to accept them, this was a weakness in the section, I will have a look to see what I have , I did my first fly fishing with these rods, they were made for a price hence the Drawn ferrules, but they did the Job at the time, I must have bought mine in the late 50's early 60's, easker1
 

easker1

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Had a look after tea, I have 6 tops all complete, and other bits as well, but for some reason only one handle, easker1
 

splinters

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Great stuff, I've been busy today and only got back here but my how the thread has progressed. Also, now I know what a bum boat is. Every days a skool day. Murph, I've used Ronseal, Rustins and Blackfriars yacht varnishes and they all work. If you ever get into restoration seriously I recommend the Blackfriars for when you're doing Garrisons or Paynes, but in the meantime Ronseal is fine.
Keep up the good work all and stay well.
Simon.
 
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