Cane rod reconditioning

sealine

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Aug 16, 2014
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Lol !

someone was gonna ask!

firstly , the expanding stuff ,bluddy messy and difficult to remove . often used to fix delamination where it has the potential to create pressure inside the blank which can create a problem getting the cane to return to its correct position. dreadful stuff. (great for laminating timber tho')

clear glue - just too soft to be any use

others require contact with water /light to work well.

Araldite is another which causes problems , mainly with inconvenient setting times , but also residual colour , and lack of flexibility- bad news on a 4mm tip section

i use Bostik clear in the red bottle for building cork handles and fixing tip tops .easy clean goes off in 20 mins. works well unless you exclude air contact to a large dollop which will delay setting time. i don't have a cork compressor . i work with 5" sections so i can have 3 cups of tea and 2 fags while holding the corks down with my free hand to make a 20" handle (works for me !) it is also not to hard so if that handle gets damaged you can remove a few corks without too much trouble . --try that with Araldite !

for delamination and any other application that needs a reliable epoxy with a reasonable working time , i use Speed Epoxy 11 from deluxematerials.com . available from model shops . gives a reasonable working time (15 mins) which lets me adjust and bind delaminations without time pressure . scrapes off easily and cleanly , slightly flexible , waterproof and crystal clear .

those two cover my rod building needs with no nasty surprises.
 

splinters

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Interesting, I've no idea what bostik in the red bottle is. Pva? Pu? Epoxy? When I try to google it I get something in a black tube.
I use Gorilla glue for building handles with a clamp. Clean up is simple with a cloth and meths and the expanding behaviour is useful for replacing individual damaged shives within a handle.
Many people use it as a finish like Murph has, it sets up clear and very tough, as good as any varnish and better than most. Downside if you're in a hurry is that it takes a lot of coats as it has a very low build. I would contend that it has earned it's place in rodmaking.
For builds and refurbs I use Aerolite UP 4145, claimed pot life of 60 minutes @ 20C. I get half an hour to 45 minutes, plenty of time to bind and straighten any blank. It can be heat set if wanted, or left to cure naturally. It doesn't suffer from creep like some epoxies can. Water clean up and if it's good enough for De Havilland it'll do me. Cures flint hard, a real advantage when designing fast tapers.
For me, epoxy is for sticking on reel seats, cheaper the better.
Different strokes for different regimens I suppose.
Simon.
 
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sealine

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Apologies shudda said Loctite - this one
 

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bonito

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Gorilla glue is the work of the Devil . has no place in rod building .

Why would it have no place ? Possibly not in your world of rod building but it most certainly has a place. I`ve built tens of dozens of shark, marlin and tuna rods and every single grip is on with Gorilla glue, none have caused any problems. It also makes a quality job for cork in the absence of Plus 8 expanding cork adhesive, (which is as near as makes no difference the same stuff). The GG sets firm, sands easily, fills voids in the cork and finishes more or less the same colour, and if you know what you are doing there is virtually no mess. Dismissing it out of hand is a bit like your other post where you say after 15 years of using resin it is more bother than it is worth, really. I`m sure you have seen my posts on WSF where I normally answer things like that as pilot error.
 
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Paul_B

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Gorilla is like WD40 in that they're firms who make a multitude of products, I assume sticky knew that


 

sealine

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Why would it have no place ? Possibly not in your world of rod building but it most certainly has a place. I`ve built tens of dozens of shark, marlin and tuna rods and every single grip is on with Gorilla glue, none have caused any problems. It also makes a quality job for cork in the absence of Plus 8 expanding cork adhesive, (which is as near as makes no difference the same stuff). The GG sets firm, sands easily, fills voids in the cork and finishes more or less the same colour, and if you know what you are doing there is virtually no mess. Dismissing it out of hand is a bit like your other post where you say after 15 years of using resin it is more bother than it is worth, really. I`m sure you have seen my posts on WSF where I normally answer things like that as pilot error.

Hi Stan

not much call for cane built marlin rods on these English rivers , but thanks anyway
 

bonito

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Hi Stan

not much call for cane built marlin rods on these English rivers , but thanks anyway

You are welcome, you said no place in rod building period, you did not specify cane rods or English rivers. A lot of call for cork handles / grips on cane rods and English rivers and GG for cork is second only to Plus 8.
 

splinters

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Hi Stan

not much call for cane built marlin rods on these English rivers , but thanks anyway
Quite a lot of call for bamboo made rods on the rivers I and my customers fish. All my rods have had gorilla glue in the handles. Several repairs and refurbs as well. No failures reported. I can get it in my local Tescos as well. Looking at the TDS for your glue and it appears to be a hybrid non foaming PU. Dries clear and "wiping the areas to be glued with a damp cloth before applying the adhesive." so it's moisture activated like GG. Temperature resistant to 80c is ok but it's water resistant whereas GG is waterproof.
Also it's flexible enough to glue cloth which makes me worry about creep a little. The highest shear strength they claim is 496 psi , the lowest is 4lbs/inch.

GG quotes 3500 psi. Sorry but given that I use my adhesives for other purposes as well, I'm not sold.
GG has certainly earned it's place on the bench for bamboo, both as an adhesive and as a finish.
You are welcome, you said no place in rod building period, you did not specify cane rods or English rivers. A lot of call for cork handles / grips on cane rods and English rivers and GG for cork is second only to Plus 8.

Stan, would you say that the differences between GG and Plus 8 are marked? Always looking to improve and as you say they seem similar, but GG is half the money and I can get the Missus to pick it up when shopping. Is it different enough to be worth the extra cash? I would have to buy online, I can't find a source over here. Worth my while?
Simon.
 

bonito

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Stan, would you say that the differences between GG and Plus 8 are marked? Always looking to improve and as you say they seem similar, but GG is half the money and I can get the Missus to pick it up when shopping. Is it different enough to be worth the extra cash? I would have to buy online, I can't find a source over here. Worth my while?
Simon.

Personal opinion only but not worth the extra. I`m talking from practical experience having undertaken no fancy tests. The GG stands up to some serious punishment on heavy salt rods. It also sands absolutely fine and clean for corks if you plan the build properly to eliminate mess.
 

easker1

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I used a Marine Glue Called Balcotan similar to gorilla, an expanding glue, set off by a damp surface, I have used it for Scarf joints when Boat repairing, easker1
 

splinters

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Personal opinion only but not worth the extra. I`m talking from practical experience having undertaken no fancy tests. The GG stands up to some serious punishment on heavy salt rods. It also sands absolutely fine and clean for corks if you plan the build properly to eliminate mess.
The personal opinion of someone who has used both carries weight for me. Thanks, I'll stick, (See what I did there) with the GG.;)
S.
 

easker1

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A favourite glue of mine is Tite Bond 3, clean and easy to use I have Laminated Bows with this, with out any problems, easker1
 
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