Fly flies photography system - Flies Photo Gadget

yamramil

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Good imitation of the caddis larvae a home

Photo Nikon d5200 + Flies Photo Gadget

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and two interest nymph

Photo Panasonic DMC TZ20 + Test Flies Photo Gadget v2.0 (2 LED)

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156-1.jpg
 

olive_dabbler

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My opinion, the main thing is to see the fly completely!))

This man took with him a Flies Photo Gadget on the Kola river, which would knit and immediately take pictures and put flies on his blog))

I think it really comes down to what you want to use the image for: (1) an accurate record of the tying of the fly (including accurate colours); (2) an accurate record that can be used for publication (as Col mentioned non-distracting backgrounds tend to be important, particularly for editors), (3) an artistic interpretation of a fly (pretty much anything goes, though you don't see many fly photos in the Sony World Photography awards!). Personally, most fly images I take are for (1) so a simple setup works best, for (2) I'd use focus stacking when needed and for light then natural diffuse light (or move back to Scotland :)), for (3) I tend to focus on other subjects!
 
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Cap'n Fishy

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I think it really comes down to what you want to use the image for: (1) an accurate record of the tying of the fly (including accurate colours); (2) an accurate record that can be used for publication (as Col mentioned non-distracting backgrounds tend to be important, particularly for editors), (3) an artistic interpretation of a fly (pretty much anything goes, though you don't see many fly photos in the Sony World Photography awards!). Personally, most fly images I take are for (1) so a simple setup works best, for (2) I'd use focus stacking when needed and for light then natural diffuse light (or move back to Scotland :)), for (3) I tend to focus on other subjects!

I think for the first 2 of those, you would want the colours to be accurate, the fly to be well-delineated from a clear, uncluttered background, and the background to be monochrome. For 'artistic interpretations', OK, but, even there, the best I have seen stand by showing the colours accurately against a clear, uncluttered, monochrome background. Just sayin'... :whistle:

Col
 

olive_dabbler

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I think for the first 2 of those, you would want the colours to be accurate, the fly to be well-delineated from a clear, uncluttered background, and the background to be monochrome. For 'artistic interpretations', OK, but, even there, the best I have seen stand by showing the colours accurately against a clear, uncluttered, monochrome background. Just sayin'... :whistle:

Col

Despite my preference for black and white photography, I couldn't agree more about accurate colour and detail when it comes to records of my own flies - not always that easy to achieve mind and I'm lucky enough to have pretty decent gear.
 

Cap'n Fishy

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... I'm lucky enough to have pretty decent gear.

For sure, me too. I'm always happy to help (if I am able) anyone who identifies an issue with their own set-up (and the results they are getting) and asks for help with it. :)

The whole colours and brain and language thing is difficult to get the head round if you have never thought about it before. There is a tribe in Africa that call some of the colours that we call green, blue, and some colours that we call blue, green. And it's all connected to the language and visual centres of the brain. It really does play a major role in how we see colours.

Which orange disc is brighter?

1920px-Optical_grey_squares_orange_brown.svg.png

:whistle:

Col
 

yamramil

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First tests Flies Photo Gadget v2.0 with 2 LED and brightness control

Camera Panasonic DMC TZ20

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157-1.jpg
 

wobbly face

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Had a quick play with the flies photo gadget.
First of I tried to make a simple pedestal base but it was too light with the gadget attached. :eek:mg: I ended just inverting the g clamp and putting a solid aluminium rod which worked but only by me being very careful. I also used a Nikon P5100 camera set to macro, not the best at macro pics, also no manual focus. Camera was on a small table top tripod I have and I moved it towards and away from the fly and also used the camera's telephoto so not the best. :eek:hno: The fly is also on the busy side which also makes focusing tricky (I prefer manual focus). The camera has not been calibrated (white balance), it's just as it comes.
1st go with fly flies.jpg 2nd with fly flies.jpg wider view with fly flies.jpg

Next time I'll try my DSLR with macro lens, though the camera will need calibrating (white balance) before hand. :rolleyes:
 

olive_dabbler

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For sure, me too. I'm always happy to help (if I am able) anyone who identifies an issue with their own set-up (and the results they are getting) and asks for help with it. :)

The whole colours and brain and language thing is difficult to get the head round if you have never thought about it before. There is a tribe in Africa that call some of the colours that we call green, blue, and some colours that we call blue, green. And it's all connected to the language and visual centres of the brain. It really does play a major role in how we see colours.

Which orange disc is brighter?

1920px-Optical_grey_squares_orange_brown.svg.png

:whistle:

Col

The green one!

At work we used to have some rather expensive calibrators to match monitor colour to output print colour. As we went more online rather than print, we more or less stopped that as most folk's monitors and ambient lighting conditions vary so much, but we also saw a big rise in issues from students viewing digital images - became a real challenge in areas like histology. We now have to include teaching on the specific risks associated with making scientific conclusions based purely on a digital colour image!
 

Cap'n Fishy

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We now have to include teaching on the specific risks associated with making scientific conclusions based purely on a digital colour image!

For sure. I calibrate my camera and create a profile for it, so when Photoshop opens an image it applies the correct colours. I keep my monitor calibrated and recalibrate it every month, so what I see is correct. But I have no idea if anyone viewing my images is seeing them correctly! :eek:mg:

On top of that, cameras don't know what the temperature of the light is, and they have to guess, based on what they've been programmed to look for - and they get it wrong as often as they get it right. Strong yellows, oranges and greens are very good at throwing cameras a dummy...

The camera sees the big orange buoy below as the lightest, brightest thing in the image, and reckons the light source is from a tungsten lamp. So, if left on 'Auto White Balance', you get 2850K, the temp of a tungsten lamp...


Once corrected to daylight...

Lomond02sep2017_9264.jpg

I see 100s of photos posted on this forum that have the white balance all wrong - mostly far too cold - so everything looks blue.

The other thing about uncalibrated monitors is they are all set way too bright. I was told this is to make text look nice and bold against a bright background... but it is all wrong for viewing images. My monitor's factory default is the 50% mark, as I guess are most folks. After calibrating it, the brightness setting is 12%!

How many folk on here ever correct the white balance of their images or calibrate their monitor???

Col
 

olive_dabbler

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How many folk on here ever correct the white balance of their images or calibrate their monitor???

Col

We still run a 10 week photography course with the RPS, aiming to get people to LRPS. A whole week of it is spent on understanding and using colour. It's safe to say that prior to undertaking the course, most students have neither corrected white balance or calibrated their monitor. Frustratingly most prefer to ask questions about tripods, cameras, lenses etc. rather than boring subjects like colour calibration - still at least hideous HDRs seem to be on the wane! :eek:mg:
 

Cap'n Fishy

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... at least hideous HDRs seem to be on the wane! :eek:mg:

Amen to that! I think a lot of it is down to Photoshop learning how to do HDR properly. I have gone from being someone who never blended 2 or more exposures to someone who has recently started (and is now regularly) doing simple blends of: -1 EV & +1 EV, rather than a single, straight 0 EV.

It's simply because Photoshop now does a good job, and there was never anything wrong with the theory behind HDR. Our brains do HDR all the time - just that it was tricky to reproduce with a camera and software.

Here are a couple of recent ones of mine, both -1 and +1 EV blends...

Orkney2019_7441-HDR.jpg


Brora-2019_0210-HDR.jpg

The biggest improvement for me has been the registry problem. Would you know this shot was an HDR blend of 3 exposures?

Lomond27Oct18_9757-HDR.jpg

The boat is moving, the photographer is moving, the waves are moving, the guy in the image is moving - everything is moving! Yet Photoshop blended 3 exposures together automatically with one push of a button!

You can now do automatic HDR panoramas! This shot is a 6 wide panorama, by a 3 deep exposure blend...

Lauder24Nov18_7293-HDR-Pano-a.jpg

I haven't tried using it on flies yet (he said, trying to get back on topic :whistle:). I must give it a go.

Col
 

wobbly face

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Eventually after reading the destructions for the camera, I had another go with the flies photo gadget. :photo: First off, I place a grey card infront of the camera and everything was A okay. :thumbs:
First fly and I needed several shots before I worked out how to get the focus in macro mode. :doh: It functions differently in macro. :rolleyes: I chose a whitish background, some sticky labels in a clear plastic bag for the base and back drop (it was laid against the grey card which I left in place). I wasn't going to try anything fancy, I'm not at that stage. :eek:
The first shots that were out of focus had a distinctive light grey tinge to the base background with a defined white strip where the white card had been hinged and where there was no sticky label. However, upon getting an in-focus shot, the base and background lost the slight greyish tinge and the white part wasn't as defined.
Heron CDC dun sighter.jpg Appleby Olive Nymph V.jpg Adams sighter V para.jpg

Pics taken with Nikon P5100
 

Cap'n Fishy

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My Flies Photo Gadget arrived yesterday and I was tying some flies for loch sea trout and salmon at the time, so I had a go with one of them.

Initial impressions:

The light intensity from the USB-powered LED is very low, so if you want to stop down the aperture and don't want through-the-roof ISO levels, then you need a long exposure - a very long exposure. I ended up with 25 seconds! I set up my tripod on the kitchen floor of a 2nd floor flat, so even just breathing moves the camera - bad news when shooting macro!

I did one using the fly clip, setting the fly in the centre of the light source, and one using the platform and trying for a white background. The set-up is definitely better-suited to using the fly clip and the black background. To get good results with the platform, you would want to tilt the LED backwards, 45 or even 90 degrees, so it lights the fly and background evenly. This should be easy to do with a variable-angle support rod.

I determined that the temperature of the LED light is around 5350 K (using the white balance tool in Photoshop).

The black card looks black. In my shot using it, I got a bit of ambient light bleed that has given it a bit of a red cast. The black of the thread and the barred teal is OK.

Anyway, here are my efforts on a 'Sutherland Trust'.

Both shots are 25-second exposures, f18, ISO 125.



SutherlandTrust27Jul19_8102.jpg




SutherlandTrust27Jul19_8099.jpg

Col
 

Cap'n Fishy

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Flies Photo Gadget with two LED strips are already on sale))

You can include one or two LED.

If I hadn't already bought one, I would buy the one with 2 LEDs, but I couldn't justify buying a second unit when I have just bought one!

What would be more useful would be an articulated holding rod, so the unit could be turned to a horizontal position, rather than a vertical position. This would be much better for shots on a flat base, ie when not using the fly clip - for example fly on a white background.

Col
 

yamramil

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What would be more useful would be an articulated holding rod, so the unit could be turned to a horizontal position, rather than a vertical position. This would be much better for shots on a flat base, ie when not using the fly clip - for example fly on a white background.

Col

Flies Photo Gadget has two holes with M6 thread

Use a small tripod)

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Cap'n Fishy

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Flies Photo Gadget has two holes with M6 thread

Use a small tripod)

I see the two holes. However, they are on the main body and the tripod thread cannot reach them because of the two blocks that take the fly clip support? In your photo you seem to have screwed the tripod into the fly clip support block?

Anyway, no matter, I can improvise a similar arrangement.

Col
 

yamramil

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I see the two holes. However, they are on the main body and the tripod thread cannot reach them because of the two blocks that take the fly clip support? In your photo you seem to have screwed the tripod into the fly clip support block?

Anyway, no matter, I can improvise a similar arrangement.

Col

Yes, I printed a small tripod that is used for fishing)) You can put any bolt in it.

New Russia flies)) Nikon D5200 + Flies Photo Gadget one LED

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ejw

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Shame it did not show the 2 LED type before I bought. Seems this is an ongoing project. However her indoors has enjoyed trying it out. When I am allowed near it I will post a couple of flies (could be some time yet).
Eddie
 

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