- Feb 6, 2010
Brocolli = difficult to grow.
Potatoes & onions are easy to start with.
Potatoes & onions are easy to start with.
It keeps for as long as it’s sealed by the covering of olive oil. Narrow jars are best as you need less olive oil to cover.That is remarkably good timing, I have a packet of walnuts that has sat on a shelf for too long! how long does it keep for? should I just make what I need just now?
Onions from onion sets is the way to go, but trim off any long, wispy, dead skin from the tops (not too low or you'll damage the shoots beneath them) just enough to stop the birds grabbing hold of them and pulling them out after you've pushed them into the ground! They probably think it's suitable nesting material.
I always found growing onions from seed a bit of a struggle on the heavy clay soil we had, so sets were my preferred method. I never had problems with mildew or bolting, so perhaps it's a more regional issue? Talking of bulbs/sets, I also used to grow garlic from sets too; so there's something else Oldbones could try.I prefer growing from seed as theres less chance of mildew or bolting, we all have a our preferred method depending on the local climate conditions, whatever it is, food always tastes better straight from the garden
Thankyou so much, you have really helped me out here, hope to be able to get this done and be a proud gardener.You can produce an awfull lot in a small space. And a lot of weeds to control .
be modest in you expectations and expand as you need , Single digging is fine unless it’s really high drainage. leave it exposed to let the frosts do the work breaking it down.
Try to find a way of defining the lawn and the soil with a barrier
And your best friend by the look of that soil will be a scaffolding board for setting out and working between the rows
Let me flesh out my thoughts.
your lawn areas have plantain daisy and dandelion and annual meadow grass, it will also have couch grass of some species and possibly a creeping fescue or similar.
All of which will be very grateful for your hard work . So you need to really define a clean line between the two surfaces and maintain it and to cut down on weeding .
I would knock out that small strip of grass along the boundary, and scrupulously clean out all the remains grass that you’ve turned up.
If your worried about soil along the fence put in some old roof tiles or similar as a barrier.
Then let the birds do the bug hunting and the frost work on your soil texture , if you feel the need to top dress with something rich and organic the frost will work that in too and then the worms. But don’t rely on that feeding the bed in the spring. Nitrogen gets leeched away with moisture and you’ll have to kick start it once the soil starts to warm up.
Not lime just stones, they will be removed.Are those stones limestone, if so, as said leave the soil ruff and let the frost get at it and add some sh!te type fertiliser to lower the alkalinity in the spring.
I'll be digging mine in the coming weeks and rotavating it in the spring.
That is what my dad did, you describe it so well.Decide what you want to grow and then think about where you would will put them. Some thoughts:
- sprawling plants like cucumber and squash can be grown up a trellis to avoid them taking over useful growing space but you don’t want them shading other plants.
- carrots and parsnips want to be in poor soil so that you don’t get lots of forked roots.
- mini-pop sweet corn ( stir fry sized cobs) don’t need pollinating and so can be planted in a row unlike ‘normal’ sweetcorn has to be planted in a square.
In summary therefore plan your planting schedule and then next dig in manure where you want rich soil and consider building it up in mounds like a ploughed field to let the frost get at it over winter before taking it down in spring. After that don’t dig at all other than to plant or harvest so that you don’t bring weed seeds to the surface; just hoe to keep weeds down.
Is it covered?A woman that lives near me does a lot of office work from home, and gives me a bag of paper all shredded now and then, the compost bin loves it.
On that note, Pom, why is my compost wet? I noticed a bit of oozing and investigated, temperature has dropped and it's wet at the bottom.
Is it covered?
( Mind you we haven’t had much rain). Probably too much green stuff ( unless your using it as a midden!) and may need a bit of coarse along with the paper.
Have you got a shredder ? At the moment I’m doing perennials that have gone over and brown ( holy hocks delphinium etc) , lavender clippings, hornbeam hedge clippings etc through the shredder which is nice and dry and high carbon.
I keep it on one side and mix it in with the green and the kitchen waste as it goes in.
I don’t think the bottle trick will work again now.
if you’ve only one bin Probably best to turn it out, turn it over back into the compost heap and cover it over. It’ll soon get back upto a working temperature to finish it off.
If it’s brown oozing liquid out of the bottom after you’ve been up to heat then that’s fabulous liquid fertiliser. I have an outlet at the base of mine to decant it .
edit: thinking about where you are if your close to Bracken . When that starts the dry up sept /Oct it’s an ideal addition ( as are the fresh frond in spring ). None of the toxins are a problem when it’s composted Great for people growing spuds! Just be careful and cover up if there’s sheep about and your in a lime disease area.
Make sure the whole heap is covered not just the contents or the water will just leak down the sides. ( you see this a lot with people putting carpet on the top ).I put a bin back over it, which was soaked with condensation(might be a clue there) I mince it up regularly with a fork to let air in but it's getting claggy, this is super fast though, last years was at this stage after a year, I mixed in a load of shredded paper, see how that goes.
I have a couple of compost bins, I have started one and when it works if it works, I will then start another.In that case it might be an idea to get it PH tested, adding lime if required to let the weather do the work over winter, then add compost etc in the spring.