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GEK79

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Maybe, mate. Mark is so fast getting his products out of the door and to you - and he sells the excellent Snake Brand Snake Rings which rarely need any further filing.
Shame he doesn't contribute here anymore, really.
Seems like a great guy to deal with before being on furlough is talked with him about various things in regards to rods. Seems like a great guy.
 

The Squire

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That's effing annoying for you! I feel your pain.
If you can get to a Superdrug you might pick up a London Nail Buffer for £3. It has different grades of abrasive surface from med grade sandpaper to 'buff' and 'shine. A bit of polishing might minimise the damage if it's not too deep.
Any chance you can cover the worst of it with a wrap? At the end of a signature or rod details, maybe?
Thanks I might pick up some Sally Hansen hard as nails whilst in Superdrug too so I look like a complete tart!! :ROFLMAO:
Seriously I might just see if I can live with it, I hate the thought even more of having a go and making it worse, and yes the wrap idea had already started fermenting.
 

glosterboy

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Yes agree, I use this for reaming out the cork. This is made from just a bit of dowel with 80 grit cut sandpaper. As for reel seat recess, I too use a Dremel sander, which is fine so long as one is careful and not try and rush it.
I'm a bit late to the party with this but I've done the same with old bits of broken fishing rod/pole.
allows you to ream out a tapered hole.
 

easker1

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Hi-Level has a decent selection of blanks just now, I was very tempted last night. easker1
 

codyarrow

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So I've made a start on reaming out the bore of the handle after i made up a reamer using a piece from an old fibreglass float rod. I glued some sandpaper in a spiral strip to it then had a go with it running in a cordless drill and discovered two things:
1, Although I hadn't tightened the chuck hard onto some masking tape over the end of the reamer I should have re-enforced the inside as it splintered the glass slightly.
2, This was a bit of a school boy error; whilst reaming out the handle a small piece of sandpaper had become detached and stuck inside the bore. When I trial fitted the blank it has put a scratch in it. :( Luckily I realised what was happening and stopped, at first I thought it was the end of the world but now I've been back to it it's not too bad and only just below the male joint so I will position it on the bottom of the rod so I can't see it whilst fishing. Lesson learnt is to check nothing is missing off the reamer and inspect inside the bore. 🤦‍♂️
Never used a drill with a reamer. Abrasive sandpaper and hand power will have it correct in a few minutes.
I am re building a rod now. It was only used for 3 months fishing and it is surprising how many scratches and the odd dink are on the blank from the boat and the odd bad cast (when I have lent the rod to someone obviously 🤣 ) Fish with your rod for a season and the scratches will become part of the patina.(y)
 

codyarrow

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Ok all the bits I buy in future are going to be uk suppliers. Got the handle for the rod today from Aventik, nice handle for a half wells, but I did order a full wells. Also reel seat, again from aventik, looks nice but not assembled. East to do if the insert external diameter of the burly bit went inside the internal diameter of the lower reel foot. I can see the job was started but not finished in the manufacturing.Will have to file to fix. Far too long to arrive, and wrong when it got here. No sign of the replacement tip section from Bulgaria yet.
 
D

Deleted member 33885

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Ok all the bits I buy in future are going to be uk suppliers.
Share your frustration. Over the years I have purchased countless electronic components from China, all which have arrived in a timely manner. Lately have purchased some fishing items, and again, apart from a Maxcatch #4 line, as ordered, arriving as a #3, delivery has been good, ie between 11 and 30 days. But like you, I ordered a handle from Aventik early October. A month later contacted Aventik who agreed to send a replacement as original could not be located. Subsequently lots of activity shown via the tracking up to 4 Dec, then total blank until 31 Dec when tracking indicated it was finally on a flight. Since then nothing, but hopefully it is now some five thousand miles closer than it was late December. Is it worth it to save a few quid? Might even be wrong even when/if it does arrive! Think the lesson is that one only buys Chinese if delivery within a required time frame is not required. But you only have to look at the Maxcatch thread, and note the number of people searching for the latest discount code, to see that the thought of a bargain is a powerful motivator for many, against which the risks pale and are worth taking.

Hopefully your replacement tip will be arriving any day👍
 

codyarrow

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Aventik want pictures of the reel seat. No problem with that but having re looked at the ebay pics and what I received the colour difference is notable. The metal components of the reel seat are nothing like. I will try and put some pics up, but I am back at work tomorrow and have spent the last two days decorating. Living the dream. 🤣
 

codyarrow

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IMG_1828.JPG

That is the reel seat from aventik. Diameter of the wood does not go into lower reel seat (he said hoping no one comes along to tell him he has assembled it wrong). Looks like the lathe should have took off to the groove you can see. Apart from that the metals the wrong colour.
Also just had a message from bulgaria saying he can now post to uk at last - so replacement on its way. With a good wind behind me I might get this rod together for 2022. :giggle:
 

JayP

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St Neots, Cambs
View attachment 34588
That is the reel seat from aventik. Diameter of the wood does not go into lower reel seat (he said hoping no one comes along to tell him he has assembled it wrong). Looks like the lathe should have took off to the groove you can see. Apart from that the metals the wrong colour.
Also just had a message from bulgaria saying he can now post to uk at last - so replacement on its way. With a good wind behind me I might get this rod together for 2022. :giggle:
If you want to send me the insert and seat hardware I'll happily turn the insert down to fit, it won't be for a few weeks though. Failing that a file would take it down to fit and epoxy will fill any gaps or flats!
 

codyarrow

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If you want to send me the insert and seat hardware I'll happily turn the insert down to fit, it won't be for a few weeks though. Failing that a file would take it down to fit and epoxy will fill any gaps or flats!
That's very kind of you JayP. I would have already filed the insert down and glued it up, but the metal is not actually the colour ordered. Waiting to see what they come up with.
That's me finished with China, the price difference is not what it used to be anyway, and it honestly is not worth the hassle.
 

codyarrow

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Replacement tip section arrived today. Still waiting for replacement reel seat from China.

Been busy re doing a 10ft rod. Had the rod on the drier overnight and about 5.30am this morning heard quite a bit of clattering sounds in the house. Got up to find the rod and chuck on the floor, while the supports and motor stand still on the work top. Must remember to put the cat out next time. Rod ok.
 

vital

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Nov 9, 2009
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Good idea. As it happens I do have a couple of rods bought on Ebay that I was a bit disappointed with, but I ought to give both a more thorough testing with lines up and down from their stated weights, to see if they still don't 'feel' right. If either still doesn't ring my bell I will happily apply the knife!
And so it came to pass. The mind's made up: going to try rebuilding both of the varmints.
I presume I start by stripping (Ooh, Matron!). I'm going to keep both reel seats and handles, although the SKS one will need filling properly, so want to start off by removing the varnish, wraps and rings, and I assume careful application of blade and sanding should do, (helped with notes already read on the rod-building forum about troublesome epoxy etc.). Once I've stripped both, how do I look into alternative ring spacing to find if that will effect the actions? I suppose I'd better take some photographs first of all?
Just know I'll be begging for help, but ... looking forward to it!
 

Lewis Chessman

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Hi, vital.
My first thoughts are whether your rods are painted/varnished?
If so, it's possible you'll remove that with the epoxy & whippings, leaving gaps in the finish if you choose to re-space the guides.
If so, one option is to gently run a dull razor along each section, dragging the blade rather than pushing it, to remove all the paint and get back to the slate-black blank. Finish the job with a very fine sandpaper then an abrasive cloth to get it perfectly smooth (if that matters to you!).
Ensure you've removed any gunk from the old rings' feet and inspect them for wear/grooves before you reuse them.

Then, I would do a 'static rod test'.
Attach the tip ring with hot-glue and tape the rings on roughly where you think they'll sit. You're going to be moving them so tape lightly.
Put a reel on the rod and find a means to support it at about a 60 degree angle.
Run the line through the rings and attach a light weight to it - just enough to keep it taut through the guides.
Now suspend a weight (just an ounce or so) from the tip ring - I use a large paperclip with a plastic bag attached into which I can add and remove weights.

The rod will bend and the taut line will show its progress through the guides. Place the first stripping ring approx. where you'll want it then adjust the guides until you have minimised the angle of the the bridge between each along the entire length.
Now add a little more weight to the bag to increase rod-stress. Still look good? Great! You're done.
If not, adjust the rings again, little by little, until the line's progress up the blank is as smooth as possible.

Mark each guide's position with a china pencil (perhaps measure & record their positions too), disassemble* and there you go. You're ready to whip. Whether you choose to spine each section or not is up to you.

* If you wish, you can tape the guides more securely first and take the rod outside for a test cast, then record (measure) each position (so that you can repeat this spacing arrangement later, should it be best) re-do the static rod test with greater or less weight and re-test cast until you are satisfied with your choices.

Hope that's clear?
Best of luck and hope you enjoy.

Edited 1/04/21 re: placing 1st stripper first.
 
Last edited:

vital

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Nov 9, 2009
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Location
South of England
Hi, vital.
My first thoughts are whether your rods are painted/varnished?
If so, it's possible you'll remove that with the epoxy & whippings, leaving gaps in the finish if you choose to re-space the guides.
If so, one option is to gently run a dull razor along each section, dragging the blade rather than pushing it, to remove all the paint and get back to the slate-black blank. Finish the job with a very fine sandpaper then an abrasive cloth to get it perfectly smooth (if that matters to you!).
Ensure you've removed any gunk from the old rings' feet and inspect them for wear/grooves before you reuse them.

Then, I would do a 'static rod test'.
Attach the tip ring with hot-glue and tape the rings on roughly where you think they'll sit. You're going to be moving them so tape lightly.
Put a reel on the rod and find a means to support it at about a 60 degree angle.
Run the line through the rings and attach a light weight to it - just enough to keep it taut through the guides.
Now suspend a weight (just an ounce or so) from the tip ring - I use a large paperclip with a plastic bag attached into which I can add and remove weights.

The rod will bend and the taut line will show its progress through the guides. Beginning at the top of the rod, adjust the guides until you have minimised the angle of the the bridge between each along the entire length.
Now add a little more weight to the bag to increase rod-stress. Still look good? Great! You're done.
If not, adjust the rings again, little by little, until the line's progress up the blank is as smooth as possible.

Mark each guide's position with a china pencil (perhaps measure & record their positions too), disassemble* and there you go. You're ready to whip. Whether you choose to spine each section or not is up to you.

* If you wish, you can tape the guides more securely first and take the rod outside for a test cast, then record (measure) each position (so that you can repeat this spacing arrangement later, should it be best) re-do the static rod test with greater or less weight and re-test cast until you are satisfied with your choices.

Hope that's clear?
Best of luck and hope you enjoy.
Sorry to be such a noob, but what does "spine each section" mean, please?
 

codyarrow

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4,312
Put one section on the kitchen worktop. Put the palm of one hand on the blank and then apply some bend at the tip. You will find the blank will want to turn to one place.
 

haggstock

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Aug 25, 2012
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That's very kind of you JayP. I would have already filed the insert down and glued it up, but the metal is not actually the colour ordered. Waiting to see what they come up with.
That's me finished with China, the price difference is not what it used to be anyway, and it honestly is not worth the hassle.
Just out of interest, in the April edition of The Field there is an article by Michael Yardley who you’d normally associate with sporting guns and firearms . It’s about assembling your own rod , with advice from Mick Bell , probably too general for most of you guys on here , but it’s nice to see something in a mainstream lifestyle magazine . One of the points made is that buying from a source like Mick Bell who has put the work in takes away the risk of single Chinese purchases .
 

Lewis Chessman

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Location
Isle of Lewis
Put one section on the kitchen worktop. Put the palm of one hand on the blank and then apply some bend at the tip. You will find the blank will want to turn to one place.
codyarrow is spot on, of course. I only wish to add that I now always put a few turns of masking tape around each female ferrule in order to give it some extra strength (later given by the ferrule wraps and epoxy). You'll also need to mark the spine (if you choose to find it) so I place another couple of turns of tape towards the top of each section and mark both with a pen to identify the line of the spine.
You could use a china pencil to do this (you'll find this item useful when marking out your guide spacings, so worth buying - they're only a couple of quid) but I find they sometimes inadvertently get rubbed off while I'm working, unlike a tape marker.
 

codyarrow

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Feb 6, 2010
Messages
4,312
Just out of interest, in the April edition of The Field there is an article by Michael Yardley who you’d normally associate with sporting guns and firearms . It’s about assembling your own rod , with advice from Mick Bell , probably too general for most of you guys on here , but it’s nice to see something in a mainstream lifestyle magazine . One of the points made is that buying from a source like Mick Bell who has put the work in takes away the risk of single Chinese purchases .
Yes I am fully converted. The blank I bought will be remaining a blank until next winter. Cork handle wrong, replacement tip (service good)but hampered by brexit, reel seat completely wrong and replacement is a fine working example in colours I did not order.
It's hard not to buy from China, but the price benefits are beginning to wane, not much in it these days.
 

b13rux

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Jun 24, 2020
Messages
98
codyarrow is spot on, of course. I only wish to add that I now always put a few turns of masking tape around each female ferrule in order to give it some extra strength (later given by the ferrule wraps and epoxy). You'll also need to mark the spine (if you choose to find it) so I place another couple of turns of tape towards the top of each section and mark both with a pen to identify the line of the spine.
You could use a china pencil to do this (you'll find this item useful when marking out your guide spacings, so worth buying - they're only a couple of quid) but I find they sometimes inadvertently get rubbed off while I'm working, unlike a tape marker.
Completely agree with this, masking tape and a pen to mark the spine over a china pen all day long,

Although I also used tape to mark the center of the guide spacings, and dispensed with a china marker all together. Just cut really thin strips and you should be able to remove them once you have whipped one side, or in the case of single legs whipped the guide on.

I just found the tendency of a china marker to rub off was a pain so binned off using it really quickly.
 

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