Next blanks

vital

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Nov 9, 2009
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401
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Crikey! This is a world away from re-ringing a coarse rod or fitting an integral quiver tip! (And they were over thirty years distant!)
So far, then, I think I should measure and record each existing guide's position, next strip the sections back to the blanks, but not ferrule/joint whippings yet, then find the spine in the top sections and mark it on tape, before stripping whippings at the joints. I'm not sure, but I think that the spine will be the 'back' of the rod, rings whipped diametrically opposite? I've already decided not to do anything with the reel seats or cork handles, save that one could do with a better filler job. As soon as I'm quite clear I'll make a start. Thank you so much for the assistance, it's very reassuring and more important, illustrates the good side of our humanity.
 

Lewis Chessman

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Hi, vital, don't worry, mate, I knew nothing about this game a couple of years ago and without the guys here still wouldn't. I'm sure we can help talk you through every stage and any difficulty you may encounter.
Might I suggest that you start a thread of your own devoted to your rods? :)

Btw, here's a page from L.A. Garcia's book 'Handcrafting a Graphite Rod' re spine/splining in the hope it helps.

Tbh, I'm still uncertain about something here - Usually I find two spines opposite one another on a section. One gives a greater jump than the other but, having marked the greater on the 'upward' surface I'm still uncertain as to which side will give a stiffer action when guides are whipped on it, so it's a work in progress for me.

1-P1030722.JPG


P.S. Is it just me but doesn't he look like Kevin Spacey? ;)
 
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stevel

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Hi, vital.
My first thoughts are whether your rods are painted/varnished?
If so, it's possible you'll remove that with the epoxy & whippings, leaving gaps in the finish if you choose to re-space the guides.
If so, one option is to gently run a dull razor along each section, dragging the blade rather than pushing it, to remove all the paint and get back to the slate-black blank. Finish the job with a very fine sandpaper then an abrasive cloth to get it perfectly smooth (if that matters to you!).
Ensure you've removed any gunk from the old rings' feet and inspect them for wear/grooves before you reuse them.

Then, I would do a 'static rod test'.
Attach the tip ring with hot-glue and tape the rings on roughly where you think they'll sit. You're going to be moving them so tape lightly.
Put a reel on the rod and find a means to support it at about a 60 degree angle.
Run the line through the rings and attach a light weight to it - just enough to keep it taut through the guides.
Now suspend a weight (just an ounce or so) from the tip ring - I use a large paperclip with a plastic bag attached into which I can add and remove weights.

The rod will bend and the taut line will show its progress through the guides. Beginning at the top of the rod, adjust the guides until you have minimised the angle of the the bridge between each along the entire length.
Now add a little more weight to the bag to increase rod-stress. Still look good? Great! You're done.
If not, adjust the rings again, little by little, until the line's progress up the blank is as smooth as possible.

Mark each guide's position with a china pencil (perhaps measure & record their positions too), disassemble* and there you go. You're ready to whip. Whether you choose to spine each section or not is up to you.

* If you wish, you can tape the guides more securely first and take the rod outside for a test cast, then record (measure) each position (so that you can repeat this spacing arrangement later, should it be best) re-do the static rod test with greater or less weight and re-test cast until you are satisfied with your choices.

Hope that's clear?
Best of luck and hope you enjoy.
James,
Whilst looking for spacings for an 11' rod ;) I found this article on a rodbuilding site which suggested to use neoprene O rings so you can slide the rings up/down without having to tape, untape and retape when trying to find the optimal positions.
Cheers,
Steve

 

Lewis Chessman

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Ha! How funny, Steve. I was thinking that only this morning whilst I spaced an .... um ..... 11 ft rod.

I learnt an important lesson today - put the first stripping ring in roughly the right place to start with! It's the one ring which you need to be in a particular place from the off. The rest can be adjusted according to the bend of the rod but the stripper needs to be placed so that the line can be reached comfortably.
I came to this conclusion having first started at the top and worked my way down the rod. If I increased the distance between each guide then the first stripper ended up on the butt section of this 4 piece Switch, far too close to the grip.
Having set the stripper more appropriately I could then arrange the other guides at decreasing distances in the space between it and the tip to minimise the bridge.
But you're right, tape is a bit fiddly, although I fold the tips over to make a tag, making removal quite quick and easy.

I was thinking of vital while I worked and took pictures as I went. I'll post a thread on the job once I've edited them.
Static Test for Guide Spacing thread is here.

Having said all that, what do 'neoprene O rings' look like? The linked post suggests them in place of using the guides. Seems odd to me as the line would be tight to the blank rather than sitting freely in the guide, wouldn't it?
 
Last edited:

stevel

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May 18, 2006
Messages
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Location
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Ha! How funny, Steve. I was thinking that only this morning whilst I spaced an .... um ..... 11 ft rod.

I learnt an important lesson today - put the first stripping ring in roughly the right place to start with! It's the one ring which you need to be in a particular place from the off. The rest can be adjusted according to the bend of the rod but the stripper needs to be placed so that the line can be reached comfortably.
I came to this conclusion having first started at the top and worked my way down the rod. If I increased the distance between each guide then the first stripper ended up on the butt section of this 4 piece Switch, far too close to the grip.
Having set the stripper more appropriately I could then arrange the other guides at decreasing distances in the space between it and the tip to minimise the bridge.
But you're right, tape is a bit fiddly, although I fold the tips over to make a tag, making removal quite quick and easy.

I was thinking of vital while I worked and took pictures as I went. I'll post a thread on the job once I've edited them.

Having said all that, what do 'neoprene O rings' look like? The linked post suggests them in place of using the guides. Seems odd to me as the line would be tight to the blank rather than sitting freely in the guide, wouldn't it?
You know, those black rubber looking rings (I think..) which you can get at a hardware store, which you can get in different sizes which are used as gaskets for pipes etc. As it said, I think you thread the line through all the O-rings then thread all the rings onto the blank. I think it can be a little loose but not too loose as the rings would slip, then if an O-ring position is not great you can just push the O-ring along a little. Then when you're happy, mark the position where all the rings are. Then Bob's your uncle! :) (says he, who's rubbish at making rods!)
 

vital

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 9, 2009
Messages
401
Location
South of England
Hi, vital, don't worry, mate, I knew nothing about this game a couple of years ago and without the guys here still wouldn't. I'm sure we can help talk you through every stage and any difficulty you may encounter.
Might I suggest that you start a thread of your own devoted to your rods? :)

Btw, here's a page from L.A. Garcia's book 'Handcrafting a Graphite Rod' re spine/splining in the hope it helps.

Tbh, I'm still uncertain about something here - Usually I find two spines opposite one another on a section. One gives a greater jump than the other but, having marked the greater on the 'upward' surface I'm still uncertain as to which side will give a stiffer action when guides are whipped on it, so it's a work in progress for me.

View attachment 37806

P.S. Is it just me but doesn't he look like Kevin Spacey? ;)
Sound advice, yet again! About to start a new thread as you suggest, it'll be called 'Earwig-o : Noob rebuilds!', please look out for it
P.P.S. Yes, it's just you
 

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