PB6 Nikon Bellows

4wings

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I bought myself a Nikon PB6 Bellows, a beautiful piece of kit, but no instructions.
Most of it is very straightforward but You Tube can be a treasure of hidden gems
of information.
 

arkle

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Back when 35mm ruled the roost, I bought an all manual J355up5 own label version for my Fe2, had to take it back, as it jammed onto the body & it was attached properly. The body had to be removed, in the "back room" & I believe a lot of force was involved. Never had any issues like that either before or since. But have only ever used proprietry named gear, after that episode.
 

4wings

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The Nikon PB6 is as smooth as silk, and subtly built like a tank. Lots of good examples still around on the bay, I imported mine from Japan and it is in new unused condition. (The Lioness bought it for me!)
 

Cap'n Fishy

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I bought myself a Nikon PB6 Bellows, a beautiful piece of kit, but no instructions.
Most of it is very straightforward but You Tube can be a treasure of hidden gems
of information.

Interesting piece of kit. What do you find works best as a lens on that? Yer man seemed to be wanting to reverse his 28 mm f2.8 to get greater magnification. Can you get greater than 5x with it? (I'm Canon gear, and their kind of equivalent to that is the MP-E 65 mm, which gives 1-5x magnification. When fully retracted, it is 1x. Then you rotate the barrel and it extends the front element forwards, like a bellows mechanism, increasing magnification until you get 5x with it fully extended. One advantage is that you have electronic communication of aperture control to the camera. Not cheap though!)

Col
 

arkle

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I think the ones I had were meant for a std 50/1.8, that you could use a reversing ring on, but purely manual as Fe2 only, as I remember had battery power for metering & shutter actuation that would be linked to the A.E. link, so no appeture control other than manual, as linkage was via a fishtale (like) fork on the top side of the lens body, where it was supposed to meet with the camera's face for linkage to the metering system.
 

Cap'n Fishy

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I think the ones I had were meant for a std 50/1.8, that you could use a reversing ring on, but purely manual as Fe2 only, as I remember had battery power for metering & shutter actuation that would be linked to the A.E. link, so no aperture control other than manual, as linkage was via a fishtale (like) fork on the top side of the lens body, where it was supposed to meet with the camera's face for linkage to the metering system.

This is where old film SLR lenses are becoming popular again, as folk experiment with digital cameras and macro photography. If you reverse the lens, you lose all electronic communication, particularly aperture control. That's bad news for modern, fully electronic lenses, but no problem for old manual lenses with the aperture ring on the lens. In 2006 or thereabouts, I bought a 1980 model Russian Zenit SLR on eBay for £1. The camera was goosed, but I kept the Helios M44 58 mm f2 lens. Not only does it give some funky bokeh effects on a dSLR, but it's pretty decent at reverse macro photography - with or without extension tubes.

If you go fishing for them on eBay nowadays, they are fetching £30 or so! o_O

Col
 

4wings

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Interesting piece of kit. What do you find works best as a lens on that? Yer man seemed to be wanting to reverse his 28 mm f2.8 to get greater magnification. Can you get greater than 5x with it? (I'm Canon gear, and their kind of equivalent to that is the MP-E 65 mm, which gives 1-5x magnification. When fully retracted, it is 1x. Then you rotate the barrel and it extends the front element forwards, like a bellows mechanism, increasing magnification until you get 5x with it fully extended. One advantage is that you have electronic communication of aperture control to the camera. Not cheap though!)

Col
I am using a nice flat field Nikon, Nikkor E.L 50mm f2.8 lens. It works very well the normal way around or reversed. Reversing needs an adapter. https://www.mjkzz.com/single-post/2018/04/20/REVERSING-EL-NIKKOR-50-F28N-ENLARGER-LENS
 

arkle

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I'd be very interested to see some images that you've had from this set-up, if possible.
 

4wings

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I'd be very interested to see some images that you've had from this set-up, if possible.
I only have one that worked, I am on the look out for insect candidates but they are avoiding me.
This is the main source, there are others but this man is a prolific source of info.
 
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Cap'n Fishy

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I am on the look out for insect candidates but they are avoiding me.

They have a tendency to do that! 😜 I generally don't try to go all out for a 5x macro of live insects. A reasonable alternative that is much easier to do in the field is to use a telephoto lens to get within range of them. This is a 100-400 mm lens plus x1.4 extender @ 560 mm...

Flowers10Jul20_9406.jpg


Also got plenty shots in the field with a 1x macro lens (100 mm f2.8 IS)...

Flowers21Jun17_9090.jpg


I have managed to bring a few insects home alive from fishing trips and got them to pose inside the light tent. Again, just the 1x macro 100 mm f2.8...

Menteith10Jun16_4631.jpg


You've got it sitting there and you are trying to focus and you are praying: "Don't you dare fly off... don't fly off..." 😗


Col
 

4wings

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They have a tendency to do that! 😜 I generally don't try to go all out for a 5x macro of live insects. A reasonable alternative that is much easier to do in the field is to use a telephoto lens to get within range of them. This is a 100-400 mm lens plus x1.4 extender @ 560 mm...

Flowers10Jul20_9406.jpg


Also got plenty shots in the field with a 1x macro lens (100 mm f2.8 IS)...

Flowers21Jun17_9090.jpg


I have managed to bring a few insects home alive from fishing trips and got them to pose inside the light tent. Again, just the 1x macro 100 mm f2.8...

Menteith10Jun16_4631.jpg


You've got it sitting there and you are trying to focus and you are praying: "Don't you dare fly off... don't fly off..." 😗


Col
beautiful photos
 

arkle

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This is probably not the best time of year for insect work, at least "in the field" especially with a bellows set-up, wind. rain & other things are going to contribute to this a LOT. Even in places like butterfly farms - where I've done quite a bit of work, things are far from straightforward, as the fickle creatures, will soon let you know, even in bright sunlit days.

Been there, etc with standard glass & close up filters, ext. tubes etc, Now I use a Tamron 90 2.8 & have an as yet unused 40m 2.8 Nikon. The next will (probably) be a 60mm &/or perhaps another body, maybe a d7200, depends on ££££'s etc, Have also got an (supposedly, all singing) Manfrotto tripod with parrallel arm, focus stages, monopd, photo-booth etc, But just a lack of time & mobility + a few other things are cramping my style a.t.m. not to mention the odd lockdown.
 

Cap'n Fishy

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This is probably not the best time of year for insect work, at least "in the field" especially with a bellows set-up, wind. rain & other things are going to contribute to this a LOT. Even in places like butterfly farms - where I've done quite a bit of work, things are far from straightforward, as the fickle creatures, will soon let you know, even in bright sunlit days.

Been there, etc with standard glass & close up filters, ext. tubes etc, Now I use a Tamron 90 2.8 & have an as yet unused 40m 2.8 Nikon. The next will (probably) be a 60mm &/or perhaps another body, maybe a d7200, depends on ££££'s etc, Have also got an (supposedly, all singing) Manfrotto tripod with parrallel arm, focus stages, monopd, photo-booth etc, But just a lack of time & mobility + a few other things are cramping my style a.t.m. not to mention the odd lockdown.

My tip for anyone visiting a butterfly farm in winter...

Put your camera/lens in a grip-seal bag and keep it there until you have been inside for 30 minutes. If you don't, you are going to have 30 minutes of wiping condensation off your camera and lens. 🤪

Butterflies20Feb18_7363.jpg


Butterflies20Feb18_7642.jpg


Col
 

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