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  1. #31

    Default Re: What is your favourite ferrule jointing goo?

    Depends on the ferrule, which is not mentioned and makes most of the previous posts a bit confusing, I'd wax spigot joints, never known a sleeve joint to need anything, it strikes me that any build up would stop the joint penetrating fully leaving movement and potential cracking the female side.
    One exception I recently posted on another thread was the Fladen Vantage, they just come loose.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
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    Hawkes Bay, NZ
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    936

    Default Re: What is your favourite ferrule jointing goo?

    Quote Originally Posted by ohanzee View Post
    Depends on the ferrule, which is not mentioned and makes most of the previous posts a bit confusing, I'd wax spigot joints, never known a sleeve joint to need anything, it strikes me that any build up would stop the joint penetrating fully leaving movement and potential cracking the female side.
    One exception I recently posted on another thread was the Fladen Vantage, they just come loose.
    My carbon rods of all types, SH and DH have sleeve ferrules, and my glass rods all have spigot type ferrules.

    I have been using a bit of either the proprietary wax, or just plain candle on all rods.

    I am just questioning if, that is right/wrong with my main consideration being for DH troutspey, rods and just not wanting to use tape.

    I have never used any of my rods with a dry joint, irrespective of ferrule type or rod type.

    Cleaned off the joints of my 5wt. DH Burkheimer and fished with it yesterday dry jointed. Can say it definitely didnít twist or come loose during use, from a full-on afternoon of various Spey casts, mending and a few rainbow encounters.

    But, I will say it was a bit more difficult to get apart; proper tight. That is probably good, and also maybe I used a little extra effort putting the sections together, knowing that I didnít use anything on the ferrules.

    Will try again, with this and other rods and maybe experiment with the way I put the sections together.

    Having used wax always, my ferrules look brand new with the wax cleaned off.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Hawkes Bay, NZ
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    936

    Default What is your favourite ferrule jointing goo?

    Interesting that RB Meiser fly rod maker is marketing The Blue Diamond, think it is called?

    They just sent me one.

    It is a pice of blue colored wax in a really useful square shape. It has the consistency of a very fine non- grainy, non granular wax.

    A quick light rub on the spigots and it doesnít build up quickly like using a piece of regular plain white candle.

    Been using it for a few weeks now. And I can say it is by far the best stuff I have come across.

    Rod joints donít move or come loose during a day of Spey casting. Rod sections are easy to disassemble at the end of the day, and it wipes off easily afterwards (so that grit doesnít stick, in between uses), just rub some more on in a flash next time the rod is assembled.

    It works very well, Itís convenient. Itís simple, And itís inexpensive.

    Give Bob or Steve a ring, or e-mail them at RB Meiser, if you want some. They are blue coloured about an inch square and about 3/8 of an inch thick. Buy a dozen, they will last you a few years. Or if the cost of overseas postage is an issue for you, order a 100 and sell them to your friends and you could end up in pocket.

    Bob Meiser and Steve Godshell are both mines of fly rod and fly line information. They also make custom fly lines to suit your casting whims, and they actually cost less than regular std lines, the well known ones.

    Cheers and beers,
    Luke.
    Last edited by LukeNZ; 19-11-2019 at 04:17 AM.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    Wiltshire
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    7,643

    Default Re: What is your favourite ferrule jointing goo?

    Quote Originally Posted by ohanzee View Post
    Depends on the ferrule, which is not mentioned and makes most of the previous posts a bit confusing, I'd wax spigot joints, never known a sleeve joint to need anything, it strikes me that any build up would stop the joint penetrating fully leaving movement and potential cracking the female side.
    One exception I recently posted on another thread was the Fladen Vantage, they just come loose.
    In the first place I never wax any of my rod joints. I just line up the sections using the rod guides, push steadily together until they firm up then give an extra little push to tighten up. I can feel it give that little "tic" as they seat together. The only time I have trouble getting them apart is if I have cold and wet hands but even so they come away with just a liitle extra elbow grease.

    Back in the day of metal ferrules We used to rub the male joint in the hair at the back of the neck or alongside the nose.

    Using wax can, as ohanzee points out, result in too heavy a coating and the ferrules not seating together far enough. This puts stress on the upper joint that it is not designed to take. My Austrian cousin proved that to himself beyond all reasonable doubt by waxing too heavily and breaking two new rods in the same morning. Funnily enough he doesn't use wax any more.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Hampshire UK
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    184

    Default Re: What is your favourite ferrule jointing goo?

    Candle wax. In very small quantities for the reason BobP stated.
    In fact I have melted new candle wax into an empty and now unavailable Orvis ferrule wax 'lipstick like' container.

    With one exception (or addition).
    When I bought a 15 foot B&W 'Hexagraph' salmon rod I also taped the joints with PVC tape to prevent them gradually and slightly loosening un-noticed and maybe splitting the joints due to their possibly weak at the ferrules six-sided construction. The joints are in fact still fine after many years of my inexpert spey casting though I wouldn't particularly recommend the rods over tubular ones.

    PS: Metal ferrules. Lanolin is the only substance to use and is excellent. Don't ask for lanolin at the pharmacy as they probably won't know what it is.
    Ask for the stuff for sore nipples and be prepared for some funny looks
    Last edited by flyfisher222; 17-11-2019 at 11:24 AM.

  6. #36
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    Default Re: What is your favourite ferrule jointing goo?

    Quote Originally Posted by flyfisher222 View Post
    Candle wax. In very small quantities for the reason BobP stated.
    In fact I have melted new candle wax into an empty and now unavailable Orvis ferrule wax 'lipstick like' container.
    Or purified paraffin, I've always thought Orvis ferrule wax was based on paraffin. Incidentally, you can easily melt it and give it any colour you like. Make your own cheap Meiser, so to speak.
    Johan Janssens

  7. #37
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    Feb 2008
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    Ecclesfield Parish
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    Default Re: What is your favourite ferrule jointing goo?

    A couple of years ago I bought a Shakespeare Agility2. The top two joints would work loose and fly off after a couple of hours fishing and a replacement rod was exactly the same. I found that candle wax solved the problem.
    There's more bullsh!t in fly fishing than there is in a Kansas feedlot - Lefty Kreh

  8. #38
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    Jan 2017
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    Hawkes Bay, NZ
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    Default Re: What is your favourite ferrule jointing goo?

    Quote Originally Posted by lhomme View Post
    Or purified paraffin, I've always thought Orvis ferrule wax was based on paraffin. Incidentally, you can easily melt it and give it any colour you like. Make your own cheap Meiser, so to speak.
    Well yes I can see where you are coming from with that.

    But that is the whole point about the Meiser was, it seems to be much finer in the sense that overlapping swipes of it on the ferrule donít build up like candle wax does.

    Itís simple cheap and really conveniently sized.

    I have tried most things, I like this best.

    What I think Ohanzee said about the build up preventing the full engagement of spigot and ferrule, I have also seen that with over application of all the usual suspects too.

    You would have to be really committed, to get the Meiser blue wax to do that.

  9. #39
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    Jan 2017
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    Default Re: What is your favourite ferrule jointing goo?

    Quote Originally Posted by ohanzee View Post
    Depends on the ferrule, which is not mentioned and makes most of the previous posts a bit confusing, I'd wax spigot joints, never known a sleeve joint to need anything, it strikes me that any build up would stop the joint penetrating fully leaving movement and potential cracking the female side.
    One exception I recently posted on another thread was the Fladen Vantage, they just come loose.
    Apologies, just read this.

    Both the sleeve and spigot types.

    Bob Meiser rods are all reinforced sleeves, the spigot just being the tapered end of the blanks. As are Burkheimer, Sage.

    All rod makers seem to recommend treating both spigot types with paraffin wax.

    Most hardware store candles (the ordinary white ones) are paraffin wax - not sure if the bees wax ones would be suitable - but provided it was just a light application, probably better than nothing?

    Only rods I have with the dowel type spigot joint, are fiberglass rods.

  10. #40
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    Default Re: What is your favourite ferrule jointing goo?

    Quote Originally Posted by LukeNZ View Post
    Well yes I can see where you are coming from with that.
    It's just coming from my limited experience with all kinds of spigots, using and building rods (glass, carbon and Tonkin), fitting and refitting spigots, adding glass-fibre/carbon layers and/or sanding them to fit. Perfectly matched metal spigots (you know, the ones that separate with a "pop") tend to wear much slower than glass or carbon ones. Usually a coating of your own bodyfat will keep a metal spigot performing for a very long time, I used to turn them against my nostrils.
    Glass and carbon ones, however, are abrasive and sensitive to abrasiveness at the same time. On dry contact they will sand away at the interfaces, slowly but inevitably. A paraffin or wax coating will not only assure a tighter, more "sucking", fit but also prevent wear. Furthermore the build-up of this coating is a sign you're applying too much or too regularly, all that is needed is a fine layer. You can never get a bad spigot to fit again by adding layers of wax, it's a waste of time and not the purpose of the coating. What you should bear in mind also is that the wax you apply to your spigot will coat the inner wall of the female joint, you are if fact making two layers that make contact when put together and result in a better grip without removing the underlying material.
    Putting them together is another thing, I've seen all kinds of methods and used mine throughout my life. I found waxed spigots to fit best when parts were pushed together unaligned and stuck firmly with a twist in the end. It takes a bit of practise to get it right in one go (aligning the guides on sight) but I found it disturbed the straight line adherence of the two wax layers in a lateral way, resulting in a tighter grip. I might be totally wrong but I never lost confidence in doing it this way.
    Johan Janssens

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