high bank

Hi bud
not sure if it is the only way, however, i find, turning round, and looking up the bank and casting as if i am trying to cast up the slope helps, hard to describe, you want tor back cast instead of being horrizontal to be closer to 45 degrees from the horizontal....
the final stroke can then be directed towards the water and you can get some turnover. weight forward lines help too, snowbee XS are awesome!
hope this helps cheers zimtrout

 

Hi Zimtrout,

You are not the first person to suggest this, sounds like a good idea, I will try this out at the weekend.

andy

 

You can roll cast from dam walls too of course. You can get good distance by double hauling the roll - just as you would an overhead cast.

Malcolm

 

Quite simply, in that circumstance you will have to sacrifice distance.

In an overhead cast, if there is a high bank behind, your backcast must be high. Your forward cast has therefore to be aimed low (ideally 180 degrees between the two), so you are tilting the whole cast as you would when casting into a wind and altering your trajectory. If you don't alter the trajectory you will get tailing loops as you have found.

Alex
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HOW TO ROLL A JOINT

 

Teanau,

Thank for your comments.

My problem is if I cast higher on the back stroke and lower on the foward stroke then I am allways going to catch the water on the forward stroke.

The other guys fishing say Clatworthy don't seem to catch the bank, so it must be something I am doing.

Andy

 

The other guys fishing say Clatworthy don't seem to catch the bank, so it must be something I am doing.

If that is the case, then it sounds to me like you must be dropping your rod tip on the back cast. It is a very common casting error, chiefly caused by using too much wrist break. Assuming you cast with the thumb on top, try to ensure your thumb is pretty much vertical at the stop on the back cast. That should help.

It is very difficult to diagnose casting faults (assuming you have one) from words alone. If I were you I would have a one or two hour lesson with a local casting instructor. Irrespective of the fact that you can put out a full line in ideal conditions, there is always room to improve.

Alex

 

Cheers Alex,

Funnily enough, I am having that dialogue mate.

Many thanks for your comments.

Andy

 

Any time Andy. Only too glad to be of assistance.

Alex
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Marysville Collective Solution Dispensary

 

could try making the stop on the back cast sooner also, on the way up as it were, technically if the rod tip is rising when you stop the line should rise at the same trajectory,
if you stop with the rod still in front of you it shoots up like stink, try making the stop as soon as you can, or before the leader fully leaves the water,
if it goes up at that angle though, it will come back at the same angle shortening that cast.

 

Why use an overhead? You could use a jump roll/switch cast, no need to worry about the height of your back cast then!

Frank

 

Actually, there's a very easy answer. No kidding.

Learn/practice to 'spey cast' with your one hander. The 'greater we' on this side of the Pond have the same issues, but many of the 'spey casts' were the 'answer' to the issue. A single hander rod doesn't know/care what type of cast your trying to make.

The snap T, circle cast (similar), single/double spey, etc., all work very well. Will you get the same distance with one of the above vs a 'double haul?' No, but darned close even with very limited space behind you.

Give it a try, you may well be surprised just how easy it works.

Fred

 

Frank,

Thanks,

The bank is elevated, but not high enough for others not to get a decent line out using an overhead cast. So this is what I am looking to achieve.
I am currently struggling to get the distance that the others are getting.

Probably as Tenneau says because I am allowing the back cast to drop too far, then getting tailing loops on the forward cast.

Not thought about the spey cast though Freda,

Thanks for the advice folks,

Andy.